Bali

Bali is a beautiful island. Despite being somewhat over-developed and commercialized in the south around Kuta, there are many wonderful places, generous people and fascinating sites. My favourite area is up around Ubud, where the cluster of villages is merging into a town, while retaining ample charm. The village of Penestanan has a plethora of art galleries and little cafes selling the delicious Balinese coffee. It is a calm and soothing place to hang out for a day or two or a week or two or a month or three.

The second time I went to Bali, I stayed in a sweet little bunch of bungalows in the southeast corner of town, in an area called Padangtegal. The bungalows looked out over a gorgeous green series of rice paddies, and the swimming pool had an infinity edge that made you think you were right there in the paddies themselves. It was a great spot to while away the hours.

Out in the east of Ubud is a place called Peliatan. On the mountain side, what they call Peliatan Kaja, the road snakes down into a little valley, where a gurgling creek winds its way among the tropical vegetation. From time to time, the rice fields go almost down to the stream. The bird scarers spin and clatter in the breeze, and the farmers pick their way along the tops of the narrow paths atop the mid walls of the paddies.

In the main street of Ubud is the temple Pura Taman Saraswati. A big pond with water lilies graces the front, and at night dance performances are held. The trick is to get a seat in the adjacent Cafe Lotus to view the evening performances, while dining on some delicious Balinese specialties such as sate lulit (mince satays) or babi guling (spit roast pig).

Pura Marajan Agung is the temple for Ubud's royal family. It's just up Jalan Suweta from Jalan Raya Ubud. It has an impressive gate, and the restaurant next door is a little gem.